“Just try not to make a fool of yourself,” I whispered to myself, as I slowly approached the tee box of Hole 14 at La Iguana Golf Course in Playa Herradura, Costa Rica. Also known as “La Guacamaya,” this Par 3 appears simple enough, but the considerable dip between the tee and green can play tricks on a golfer’s eyes, and the slight upward slope of the green might even make you question your strategy several times before you even line up your swing.

All the while, you’re surrounded by the lush greenery this Central American paradise boasts from coast to coast, which makes it one of the more relaxing settings for a 20-handicapper who made the unusual decision to enter a golf tournament approximately 3,300 miles from home. When I was offered the opportunity to play in the Bonvoy Marriott members’ event at Los Suenos Marriott Ocean and Golf Resort two months earlier, it sounded downright insane — after all, I can simply drive 10 minutes if I’m dying to finish in the bottom 20. However, something just felt different about this idea, almost as if the “Pura Vida” vibes were beckoning me.

That’s probably because I hadn’t been to Costa Rica yet, which is insane. All I ever hear from friends and peers is how perfect this country is, as it boasts remarkably stunning beaches on both the Caribbean and Pacific coasts, as well as amazing rainforests and volcanic regions that not only feel otherworldly but are also the settings for indescribable adventures. And all the while, on top of everything else, I have wondered: “Is Costa Rica a golf destination?”

Turns out the answer isn’t that simple. For starters, anyone who has been to Costa Rica knows that golf is probably among the last things on your mind. Between the beaches and the rainforests, you could spend weeks in this Central American paradise — surfing, exploring, ziplining, eating, exploring again, and partying — before you even think about picking up a club.

However, as I would soon discover through this tournament, this country is well on its way to becoming one of the best golf destinations in the world.

Sometimes You Just Need to Say, “F*ck It” and Enter a Golf Tournament

The thing about getting better at golf is that you have to put yourself in challenging situations to really push yourself to play to your potential. I’m not trying to qualify for the PGA by any means, but routinely playing in the low 90s or even high 80s would be absolutely delightful. So, when the opportunity to finally play in Costa Rica came with the caveat that it had to be in a tournament, well, so be it.

I don’t know why I expected the Bonvoy Marriott members’ tournament at La Iguana to be a massive affair, but I was relieved and perhaps even more so excited when I arrived at check-in to see that it was no bigger than any of my local events. The smaller crowd consisted of mostly Costa Ricans who visit this stunning resort for family vacations — a terrific choice for the time of year, November 24-25 — but there were some expats in the groups as well. After asking several of them what lured them to this country for the long haul, I understood the answer was as simple as, “Just look around you, dude.”

But I was far more intrigued by what the locals would tell me over the span of two days and 36 holes, and my first impression was that this was as much a social event as it was a competition. Many of my fellow golfers walked the line of carts, seemingly saying hello to old friends, but in many cases, they had only met at the previous year’s tournament. My playing partner (or “cartner” as I always semi-cleverly offer) and new friend, Berny, eventually told me that most of these people came to Los Suenos Marriott and La Iguana in recent years on a whim, and the setting, atmosphere, and game made it a no-brainer for them to return again and again.

Another new friend, Carlos, had his entire family in tow, turning this tournament into an ideal excuse for two sizable gatherings in one. When I explained that I’m a solo traveler on most occasions, he insisted I join his squad for everything that didn’t involve golf, and that was a theme as I met more and more entrants. As welcoming as Costa Rica’s marvelous natural beauty felt, the people exude warmth and generosity that I have never experienced anywhere else.

La Iguana is a Thrilling, Challenging Nature Lover’s Course

At the center of this tournament, exhibiting the heart and soul of this stunning golf course, is Jose Quesada, PGA Director of Golf at La Iguana. He was as much a party host as leader within the clubhouse, but he is also, quite obviously, the person who knows more about this course than anyone else. Naturally, I had to pick his brain on what a first-timer should know not only when it comes to playing La Iguana, but what makes this a unique playing experience.

“You can go and see any course worldwide, and you won’t see as many animals as you will find on this golf course — sloths, macaws, toucans, monkeys,” Jose told me. “Enjoy that experience. It’s great to play golf on the golf course, but the experience of being inside the jungle and seeing all these animals while you’re enjoying a great game is amazing.”

I thought he might be exaggerating, but as I watched a flock of gorgeous red macaws fly above us as we teed off on the first day of the tournament, I thought to myself, “If that’s all I see, I will still be amazed by this place.” By the end of the round, I’d spotted a pair of monkeys, a baby toucan, and a massive band of coatis, raccoon-like critters that don’t seem to care if your Pro V1 bounces past them — although they’re very interested in any snacks you might be carrying. It was downright amazing.

But what about the course design and what that means to a casual golfer with a handicap as high as the trees? La Iguana almost feels like a micro-tour of the country, the way you move from the luxurious resort setting into the jungle and then finish with the coastal views. It’s as rare a golf setting as I have ever experienced, and very little felt like the “same old” in terms of tropical elements. With so many trees, though, inexperienced players, like Berny and me, could find it all intimidating, especially if you’re only traveling with one box of balls. Jose’s advice? Play it safe.

“Fourteen holes are in the jungle, and then we have the last four holes that are next to the ocean,” he explained. “It’s a tight course, you have to know how to play it and lay up most of the time, because if you miss a shot, you’re in the jungle.”

That mentality certainly saved me from playing hero ball on some of the more challenging holes, but even short, safe shots left me scratching my head for what to do next. La Iguana is as challenging as it is beautiful, and by the time I said my goodbyes following the second day’s round, I felt like I had played one of the most all-around rewarding courses anywhere on this planet. I was exhausted but also so insanely happy.

That Extra Bit of Pura Vida Magic

“Just try not to make a fool of yourself,” I whispered to myself as I approached the tee box on Hole 14 for my first swing of the day. The other three players in my foursome had already littered their balls throughout the rough surrounding the large, ascending green. Before I set my ball, I turned to Berny and mentioned how I’d love to win closest to the pin at this tournament more than anything — ”Just once in my dang life” — and we shared a chuckle. 

I pushed my tee with the Bonvoy Marriott Srixon ball almost entirely into the turf, and I stepped back to consider my shot strategy once more. “Straight and short is always fine,” I told myself, trying to ignore the other voice reminding me that it was a huge mistake to not warm up that morning. Raising the anxiety even more was the fact that my seven cohorts were now lined up like a gallery to my left, so “Hit it straight” also included “… and not into one of their faces.” 

“Here goes nothing,” I thought, bringing my club back for a hastily measured ¾-swing, and then punching it forward with the hope that I didn’t shank it into the small creek running parallel to the cart path. I didn’t lift my head right away, as I was pleased that the swing simply felt perfect. Then, one of my fellow players broke the silence: “That’s got a chance!” I’d never heard that before, I cracked to myself.

I’d put a splendid draw on the ball — rarely intentional — and I let out a sharp, “Oh baby!” as it touched down on the front of the green with a clean plop-and-roll. And, as I twirled the club back down to my waist like a dork pretending that he meant to do that, I felt my vision narrow as the impossible happened. Perfect speed, ideal path. Plunk. A hole-in-one. 

Not the first of the tournament, sadly, but my first. On my first swing of the day, no less. I’ve always imagined my first ace would take place in my later years, while playing with the other grandpas at the local course, but I am so grateful it happened at La Iguana in the Bonvoy Marriott members’ tournament at Los Suenos Marriott. Not just because of the beautiful setting and the incredible way seven strangers celebrated for me by shouting, cheering, and making sure everyone within a mile could hear what was happening (apologies again to the Americans who were teeing off on the adjacent box).

But because everyone from the course pro to my playing partners all made it feel like I was home.